| |
| |
|
|
|
|
12 volt Smart
Battery Isolator with 150+ amps pass through and solid-state
control |
|
Battery isolator allows an auxiliary battery to be charged by the
vehicle's system, yet not participate in engine starting. It also prevents the
starting battery from being run down by your equipment when the engine is
off. |
 |
 Click here for DC UPS controllers for cars and
busses. |
|
Superbly Engineered Products, Retail,
Wholesale, and Custom Designed!
This
is a hybrid device. It uses state-of-the art microprocessor solid state control
of the charging and isolation functions, but uses a solid contactor relay to
control the big currents. Because nothing is worse than the smell of burned
MOSFETS .
Seriously, we can design a
solid-state battery isolater, but we like the forgiving nature of a big
contactor. If you have a 1500 amp spike, the relay's terminals can probably
handle that, whereas MOFETS will simply fail, and when one fails the rest
cascade like a waterfall. The worst thing that can happen with a contactor is
that the relay contacts will weld together if the big over-current happens
while the contactor is trying to open. This (to us) is a fail-safe condtion,
requiring only some banging on the relay to get it working again. This hybrid
system is really the best of both worlds, solid-state control and solid-metal
contacts.
This battery-isolator is used to
control battery systems that charge off the vehicle's alternator. They won't
let the auxiliary batteries be discharged by the vehicle's gadgets or start the
car (unless asked to). It will allow the extra battery to be charged at
whatever rate the alternator can put out, so it needs big enough cables to do
that. Big lead acid batteries when they are empty can accept 150+ amps, so rate
the wires at the maximum current of the alternator (see the Q/A section below).
The features are as follows: First it allows you to safely charge an external lead acid battery
from the car electrical bus. It relies on the alternator's smarts to give it a
good charge.
Second it
isolates the extra battery from the car so it won't be discharged by the car
electronics, and it won't try to participate in starting the car. (There is an
emergency function that will allow the spare battery to feed back to the
starting system if the starting battery is dead.)In this mode it is a dual
battery relay.
Third it
allows you to run equipment in a trailer or RV without disconnecting the
vehicle power bus. While the vehicle's engine is running all equipment is
running from the car's power. When the engine is turned off the trailer
equipment is run from the auxiliary battery
Fourth, there is an emergency function that will allow the spare
battery to feed back to the starting system if the starting battery is dead or
weak. This allows you to give the system a boost in cold weather or if a
squirrel snuck into the cab and left the lights on all night.
Fifth, the auxiliary battery can be a deep
cycle type designed for running lights, TV, refrigerator, etc.
Sixth, it can be used as a low-voltage cutout to keep the car's
battery from being drawn below 12.6 volts.
Seventh, no external diodes or current
sense resistors are needed, the unit is a self-contained dual battery isolation
relay.
| Detailed Specifications |
PST-SBI-3112 |
| Max Charge Current |
150 Amps, controlled by the
vehicle's alternator. |
| Maximum pass-through
current |
150 amps (150
amps is the maximum current that the relay can reliably break, higher currents
can be passed for brief periods of time, spikes up to 1500 amps) |
| Maximum pass-through
wattage |
2100 watts (see the
pass-through current above) |
| Transition time |
15 seconds decision
time, instantaneous switching time |
| Charge voltage |
Determined by the
alternator |
| Type of battery charged |
Lead acid, VRLA,
SLA, marine, deep discharge, etc. |
| Nominal Battery Voltage |
12 Volts |
| Size of module |
70 x 90 x 50mm
(70 x 90 x 80mm including mounting flange) 2.75 x 3.5 x 2 inches
(2.75 x 3.5 x 3.2 including mounting flange) |
| Car battery connects when the
vehicle bus exceeds |
13.4 volts |
| Car battery disconnected when
vehicle electrical bus is less than |
12.6 volts |
| Maximum operating
voltage |
16 volts |
| Idle current when solenoid is
off |
6 mA |
| Idle current when solenoid is
on |
1 Amp |
| "On" resistance |
Less than 200
micro-ohms |
| Display |
Green LED lights
when solenoid is ON, which means that the alternator is connected to the
auxiliary battery |
| Connection |
Bolt terminals |
| Emergency override |
Connect the yellow
wire to +12 to actuate the relay and connect the auxiliary battery to the car's
electrical system. |
| Weight |
1 lb 4 ounces 600
grams |
| User's guide |
Click here for the user's
guide |
| Ordering |
See the shopping cart below |
| Model |
Price for quantity 1-10 |
Price for quantity 11-100 |
Quantity 101-500 |
Quantity 501-999 |
PST-SBI-3112 Out of
stock until Mid May, 2008 |
$73.50
 |
$63
 |
$53
 |
$46
 |
Dimensions, click on drawing for larger view
 This shows
the unit mounted on the negative terminal of a car's battery. This is not
necessarily the best place to put it, but it does work.
Questions and
Answers
1. Q: What is the intended application? A: Automatic
separation and connection of main (starter) and auxiliary batteries during
charging and discharging according to the state of charge of the main battery.
Dual battery or multi-banks battery systems such as four wheel vehicles, RV,
hunting vehicles, solar charged batteries, ham radio, etc.
2. Q: How
does the module work? A: The brain of the isolator is a match-box sized
potted control box with a microprocessor unit and voltage sensing circuitry. It
constantly checks the voltage of the main starting battery for connection and
disconnection of the mounted solenoid contactor with appropriate time delays.
The merging of the electro-mechanical solenoid valve for large current
capability, and the lowest possible insertion loss, with a smart microprocessor
control combine to make a reliable, precise and cost effective battery isolator
/ separator /combiner for use with multiple battery banks.
3. Q: What is
the principle of operation? A: In the normal state the main and auxiliary
batteries are separated by the isolator.
The control box will constantly
monitor the main battery voltage until it is charged to 13.6 volts and stays
there or above for 15 seconds. The isolator will then connect the two batteries
in parallel through the solenoid contactor to allow both batteries to be
charged.
When there is a heavy or sudden drain on either battery (due
to large loads such as starting the vehicle or shutting down of the alternator)
the voltage across the main battery drops to below 12.6 volts and the batteries
are separated by turning off the relay coil.
The cycle will repeat to
ensure full protection and priority charging of the main battery at all times
and to allow safe charging of the auxiliary batteries. Priority is given to the
main (starting motor) battery to be charged first.
There is an over ride
connector that can be used to connect the two batteries at all times to be used
for emergency purposes, for example if you want to leave the vehicle lights on
for an extended period of time, or the starter battery is not strong enough to
start the car by itself.
4. Q: What are the four types of battery
isolators? A: The first is simply a switch to remove the auxiliary battery
from the car's electrical circuit. The disadvantage of this is that humans
(such as me) forget to turn the switch on and off as appropriate.
The
second is a diode isolator. This is simple, it allows current to flow from the
circuit with the highest voltage. The disadvantages of these are limited
current, and the fact that there is always a half-volt drop across the
resistors. This will dissipate 50 watts when 100 amps are flowing, so it is
wasteful unless you are using that power to heat the trailer. It also lowers
the charge voltage going to the auxiliary battery which severely decreases its
maximum charge rate.
The third is a solid-state relay system that uses
control circuitry and power MOSFETS to do the switching. This eliminates the
diode drop, though there is still some resistance in the power transistor
conduction channels to cause heat and to limit the amount of current to flow.
These are susceptible to damage from voltage and current spikes and can be
damaged by drawing too much current through them. Due to the high cost of
high-current MOSFETs these isolators are about twice the price and half the
pass-through current of the hybrid unit that we sell.
The fourth is our
hybrid system that uses a microprocessor circuit to monitor the charging and
discharging and a rugged, reliable solenoid contactor (relay) to allow enormous
currents to flow without damaging the electronics. This has the advantage of
high precision, high reliability and low cost.
5. Q: What size
wires should I use?
A: As big as is reasonable. Our web page
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
recommends 2 gauge to 00 gauge to transmit 180 amps, depending on how far you
are going. If you are going short distances you can play with smaller wires,
but 3 feet of 6 AWG wire will drop 0.2 volts when transmitting 180 amps. When
using the calculator on our Wire Size page note that the voltage drop only
depends on the gauge and the current, not on the input voltage. You should try
to have the total voltage drop in the wires be less than 0.25 volts.
If
you are not going to draw that much current then the wire gauge can be smaller.
For example, if you have an alternator that will only supply 75 amps and you
aren't going to be drawing more than that on your load you can rate the wires
for 75 amps instead of 180 amps.
6. Q: Which of the terminals get
connected to which wires? A: It doesn't matter as long as the yellow and
black wires go to the small terminals and the positive input goes to the same
big terminal as the module is connected to.
5. Q: What size wires
should I use?
A: As big as is reasonable. Our web page
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
recommends 2 gauge to 00 gauge to transmit 180 amps, depending on how far you
are going. If you are going short distances you can play with smaller wires,
but 3 feet of 6 AWG wire will drop 0.2 volts when transmitting 180 amps. When
using the calculator on our Wire Size page note that the voltage drop only
depends on the gauge and the current, not on the input voltage.
If you
are not going to draw that much current then the wire gauge can be
smaller.
6. Q: Which of the terminals get connected to which
wires? A: It doesn't matter as long as the yellow and black wires go to the
small terminals and the positive input goes to the same big terminal as the
module is connected to.
7. Q: Why does the solenoid get hot? A: It
is dissipating 12 watts to keep the coil activated, so it can get pretty hot.
Make sure you mount it in a place that won't allow some one to touch it and it
has some heat dissipation such as free air flow.

To
order, please call 801-764-9060, 9062, 9063, or 9064, FAX to 801-764-9061, or
use our shopping cart. You can cancel your order any time before you submit
your payment. Wholesale, manufacturer's and OEM pricing available. Custom
modifications at low cost.
 |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
PowerStream Technology:
140 South Mountainway Drive, Orem Utah 84058 Phone: 801-764-9060, 9062, 9063, or 9064
Fax: 801-764-9061
|
| |
|
PowerStream
Technology 140 South Mountainway Dr. Orem,
UT 84058 Phone: 801-764-9060, 9062, 9063, or 9064 Fax:
801-764-9061 Map &
Directions |
|
|
© Copyright 2000,
2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 Lund Instrument Engineering, Inc. All rights
reserved This material is copyrighted original work. It is
forbidden to use this information, text, or graphics in full or in part on
another web site without written permission. |
|
|
|